Patternmaking Essentials: The Tailored Jacket
Oticca Beamer
Class Preview
- In-depth Instruction; over 120 mins
- On-demand video access anytime
- Bonus downloadable PDF resources
- Access to class Q&A
Drafting the Jacket Back Sloper
15:43
Meet your instructor, Oticca Beamer, and start learning how to draft a jacket sloper from your own bodice sloper. Then you'll add ease to the bodice sloper back for the room you'll need in a jacket. Finally, measure the neck and armhole and learn how to relocate the back armhole notch.
Drafting the Jacket Front & Sleeve Sloper
20:23
Add ease to the front bodice sloper and don't forget to square your edges! Then true the front jacket sloper you've created to the back jacket sloper. Add ease to the bodice sleeve to create a jacket sleeve sloper, and compare the jacket armhole circumference to the sleeve cap measurement.
Designing the Lapel
11:42
Now you'll begin to draft your custom jacket pattern from the jacket sloper you've created, as Oticca demonstrates how to add ease for an optional shoulder pad. Then design and draft your button extension and lapel break. Finally complete the lapel shape and see some of Oticca's favorite variations.
Designing the Collar
11:09
Design the upper and undercollar for your jacket pattern with Oticca's help! First, measure and draft the main collar on your pattern. Then trace the main collar to create the upper and undercollar pattern pieces for a collar that will lie perfectly against your neck with no collar seam visible.
Designing the Front
24:31
Finish designing the front jacket pattern pieces with Oticca's guidance. First, convert the darts to a flattering princess seam. Then, consider adding pockets. Finally, create the facing and lining pattern pieces and use Oticca's trick to account for the turn of the cloth at the lapel.
Designing the Back
18:24
Continue drafting the back jacket pattern pieces as you design a back princess seam to perfectly match the front. Then, make the back neck facing pattern. You'll also create a lining pattern with a jump pleat and back pleat. Oticca shows you how!
Designing the Sleeve
17:56
Oticca demonstrates drafting a two-piece sleeve from your jacket sleeve sloper and shows how to true up the inner and outer sleeves. Next, draft a sleeve lining pattern. You now have a complete custom jacket pattern and a jacket sloper you can use again and again for new designs.
Description
Discover how to make a jacket pattern that’s ready to cut and sew with guidance from expert patternmaker Oticca Beamer! Begin by transforming a bodice sloper you already have into a custom jacket sloper by adding ease in all the right places. As you draft, Oticca will teach you how to true the pieces so they’ll sew together perfectly. You’ll then use your jacket sloper to design a tailored jacket pattern, incorporating designs for the lapel and button extension. Continue creating essential front pieces with an upper and undercollar, flattering princess seams and tips for pocket placement. Next, add stability by making facing and lining pieces. Move on to designing the back pattern piece by adding a neck facing and a lining pattern with jump and back pleats. Finish your pattern by drafting a two-piece sleeve, truing the inner and outer sleeve pieces and creating a sleeve lining.
Oticca Beamer
Oticca Beamer has more than 45 years of fashion garment sewing experience and has been designing flat patterns since 1986. She recently retired from her pattern design company, but still teaches pattern design classes, holds private group workshops and drafts new garments for her wardrobe.
Bonus materials available after purchase
